I have found heaven on earth... the thing about ecuador thus
far is that it has been quite a bit of work. between health
brigades and spanish lessons and learning about alternative
medicines here, our schedule is pretty booked. granted this
is a rotation, so I expect far less play than a vacation;
that said, it is nice to get to enjoy some of the touristy
aspects of ecuador, and that is exactly what is happening
here in baños - aka heaven on earth :)
today was either the best, or second best, day of the trip
yet (you can decide for yourself if carnival/tamascal trump
what I'm about to describe). we met up with 10 from our group
(jenny, emma, liz, trisa, rachel, becca, misha, anne, lo and
me) in our hostel lobby at 9am to pay for and set off on our
canyoning adventure arranged by the hostel owner (this place,
la princesa maria, is owned by a dad and son and we love it
here!!). two guys walked us to their home base (everything in
baños is within walking distance), and we geared up. one
baggy wetsuit, two ragged knee pads, a decent looking harness
(thank goodness), and some sweet converse-esque, size 36
shoes later we were ready to go!! oh, and a sexy helmet,
can't forget that part. and also this butt bucket thing made
of slippery canvas (we would later discover the purpose).
let's just say, if you aren't already imagining our group in
this getup, that we looked good ;)
our two guides seemed pretty thrilled to have a tour group of
10 young, overly-enthusiastic females, and they were taking
advantage of the photo ops. out front we took the smiling
pic, the crazy pic, the jumping pic, oh, and can't forget the
canvas butt pic (hope that one doesn't make the front window
of their store)...
then a truck pulled up, just a little
tacoma-ish 4 door, and I jokingly told the group to just all
pile in the back... only as we finished laughing about this
silly idea our guide was like, ok 5 of you inside, 5 of you
in the back. with our driver and the two guides in the bed of
the truck with half our girls we had 13 people in this single
car. ohhh if dr. W only knew! (stick a stray dog in the car
with us and take a pic to show dr. W, he'd have a heart
attack on the spot)... what happens in baños...
we made it in one piece to the waterfalls a few miles down
the road. you see baños, lovely baños, is this small town
surrounded on all sides by steep, jungle-laden cliffs, many
of which continue up to form volcanos. waterfalls cascade
down many of these mountains, creating the perfect playground
for tourists seeking adventure. and boy did we find that and
then some...
we started off small to learn the technique and also because
a 20 foot-ish waterfall stood between us and the good
stuff... one at a time and watched closely by our awesome
guides, we would repel down the waterfall; right hand holding
the rope at our hip, left hand feeding it from ahead, our
instruction involved a lot of "wide feet" and "lean back"...
having completed the first waterfall of the group, we walked
to the next, this one smaller, smoother and shaped steeply
like a slide. so rather than repel our guided hooked the rope
to the back of our harness and we discovered the reason for
the slipper butt covers, they make for easy sliding down the
waterfalls. and I dare you not to laugh when you're being
lowered down a waterfall by your butt, and I double dog dare
you not to laugh when your friends are being lowered down in
a similar fashion. at the end of these two I had had enough
fun for it to be well worth the $22.50 i paid, but there was
more :)
our next repel was considerably bigger than these past
waterfalls. we were to repel down to a ledge overlooking what
appeared to be a lot of air... 45 meters of it, to be exact
(nearly 150ft)...!! they stacked us up on this tiny wet ledge
(just a flatish rock with less water than the actual
waterfall), inbetween the two steams of water launching down
to the valley below. the repel, however, would be a little
different. I was hooked to the rope, my safety secured. I
began the repel but less than 10 feet down the wall, the wall
itself disappeared! or rather it became apparent that we had
started on an overhang and so the bottom 140 ft of the repel
were free falling, so to speak. I took my sweet time,
controlling my own descent with my bare hands gripping the
rope on either side of my harness. it was a very ninja
experience dropping from the sky in such a manner. I paused
to enjoy the plant life growing in the ever-moist environment
under the waterfall... I spun slightly and looked up to
appreciate the water falling down on either side of me,
though I remained surprisingly dry for the moment... a few
feet more, I looked down. the rope wiggled feet above the
ground with my movement, and I couldnt help but wonder if I
would just drop off the end and fall the rest of the way to
solid ground. another pause for the view and yet another to
appreciate my epic location in the world at that very moment
- is this real life?!
I made it to the bottom without dropping off the end of the
rope, and, safely on the rocks, i unhooked my harnesses. what
a wild experience. we couldn't help expressing that the many
rules and regulations in the us mean that adventures like
this would never fly. and speaking of fly I wish I had
recorded how our guide decended the waterfall - think
superman. we hiked/climbed this crazy ladder out of there and
set off for the next waterfalls. through a maze of bamboo
next to a river we walked. the trail transitioned to rocks
and we climbed, using ropes placed there to help our ascent.
finally we were in the middle of this cascade of at least 8
massive waterfalls, one after the other like dominos down the
side of the mountain cliffs. we repelled down these and after
many more crazy photos we were thoroughly soaked, pretty darn
cold, and unquestionably exhausted of our adrenaline.
we sat
in a hut in the forest and drank tea that tasted exactly like
fruit loops, which helped us warm up. then I piled in the bed
of the truck with half our group and all 13 of us made our
way back to baños. the bonus was that the guys supposedly
gave us a cd of all of the photos they took of us that day.
hope we can open it!!
the rest of our day looked like this:
-banana chocolate empanadas (oh wow).
-taffy samples on every block (they manually pull it here,
looping it over this wood hook thing nailed to the wall, it
is delish!! I like the purple flavor best).
-plantains filled with cheese and served warm.
-a hike up the mountain where my other friend lo had been bit
by a dog when she was here in baños (fortunately no dog run
ins for us). incredible views and a great workout.
-a few hours at the natural hotsprings here, directly below
this insane waterfall, and all natural mineral water in these
pools directly from the springs. it was packed, and all the
women are forced to wear shower caps, so it was an
interesting experience, but definitely relaxing...
-more plantains and queso.
-dinner at an italian restaurant...?
-a few more souvenir purchases (that almost didn't happen
because the girl working at the stand where I wanted to buy
these earrings was sucking face, literally, with some guy, so
hard I thought one or both of their lips might fall off...)
-walking around the town at night with an ice cream cone.
bliss!!
and yes, we fit all of that into one day!!
like I said, I love it here... but I'm exhausted now and need
sleep because I somehow have a cold in a place much warmer
than oregon in february (though oddly enough my phone is
convinced that there are snow flurries here and the temp is
33 - not sure which baños verizon is thinking of...)
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